Whitsunday Islands

We don't have much idea what to expect when we hike out to the marina, slung down with mesh nylon bags (towels, cosmetics, books, candy). Once we're introduced to the crew of the S.V. Whitehaven (Sarah the cook, Rob the skipper and Dave the deckhand) we throw our flip flops in a bucket and board the 70 foot, 2-mast ship.

The town of Airlie Beach

Set out from Airlie Beach around 1. Out in the channel to the islands we raise sail and lurch across the choppy water with the stereo blasting an eclectic mix (everything from BT to AC/DC to Led Zeppelin). A good assortment of backpackers on the boat - Germans, French, Brits, Swedes. We're the only Americans, but get a double bunk, wedged up in the corner of the galley.

Our bunk for the trip

Our first snorkeling spot is Caves Cove, a reef fringing Hook Island. Pull on our Stinger Suits, thin little wet suit things, and then jump into to snorkel the reef for about an hour. The water is a bit blurry but we get some good views of purple parrot fish and brain coral, pulsating.

Back on deck near Caves Cove

Out of the water the crew serves instant coffee and tea and biscuits and we dry off and kill time - watching towering clouds (some foreboding) over jungly little islands.

Dave-O cleaning the Anchor as its pulled in

Sleeping is a bit rough, crammed into the humid bunk, a slow lurch of the boat in anchor. The stinking head (bathroom) is just as bad, a small closet with pump toilets and a spigot of cold water for one minute showers. But these are all part of boat life.

The S.V. Whitehaven

Day two we head over to Whitsunday Island, park the boat offshore and ride a little zodiac (through a cove of surfacing sea turtles) to a jungle path. A short hike through this dense, hooting forest and we emerge onto a stretch of white sand - Whitehaven Beach.

Whitehaven Beach, high tide

It's a crescent of sand that encloses a shallow lagoon (patrolled by stingrays and camouflaged sand sharks) and swirls out to the blue deeps. We lounge in the sun and take photos and float through the lagoon.

Whitsunday Island

Before we're good and crispy we head back to the ship. Our next stop Mantaray Bay. This is a more delicate reef, lots more concentration of fish and sea life. We snorkel through thick schools that dart around and part ways as we float overhead, arm-length from the coral. We see giant clams with purple mouths, and a zebra shark hiding in a bramble of dead coral.

On the prow!

In the evening we anchor again and eat a big meal of spaghetti and the backpackers start drinking and watch the stars come out - before a quick downpour forces us all into the covered stern.

Another night crammed into the bunk and then we sail back to port, full on across the choppy channel, big crests and troughs crashing against the hull, spraying us all, the skipper laughing.

All and all a memorable trip, despite the filthy deck and living quarters. Makes us remember what life on a ship was like. But we're glad to be back on dry land.

Maybe we're just landlubbers.